Sometimes an accident happens and a silicone doll needs repairs. Some of the instructions included below will be applicable to all brands of silicone dolls. In some cases the instructions are a broad overview. If you are uncertain, contact us for information before starting a repair. A bad repair is often harder to fix than the original problem, so please prepare ahead of time, make sure you have all necessary tools and materials for the entire fix then proceed carefully.
Use these links to jump to the section you are interested in:
Fingernail & toenail replacement
Silicone tears: Armpit, Hands, Feet
Joint Tighten: Knee, Ankle, Elbow, Wrist
Joint Tighten: Neck
PVC repair: Leg, Knee
Air pocket removal
If you live close enough to bring your Sinthetic in for a repair we can sometimes schedule a time to work on your doll. Keep in mind that our ability to do a clean repair is dependent on the condition of the doll we receive and the extent of damage. Extensive repairs could require weeks in our studio. Repairs are billed on an hourly basis depending on the problem. Dolls must be delivered to us CLEAN and sanitized before we will work on them. If you’re not close enough to bring the doll in you can ship the doll to us but you have to pay freight and packaging in both directions. Please contact us for more information. Repair availability is determined on a case-by-case basis.
Order a basic repair kit
Please email us if you need a specific repair kit such as a tear-repair, nails or eyelashes, or a larger repair such as a breast refill or significant limb/back repair. It is best if you can provide us with clear photographs to detail damage you are trying to fix as well as the doll number and skin tone. Specific repair kits cost more than the basic and are made on a case-by-case basis.
Basic repair kits include:
Caulk/adhesive, sponges, matting powder, tint if specified, cups, sticks
Useful tools to have in your Doll Maintenance Kit:
Several of these items are included with each doll when we ship.
Two 13mm or 1/2 inch wrenches
Phillips head screwdriver
Xacto Knife and blades
Curved cuticle scissors
Caulk & Caulk gun – either Silpoxy adhesive or GE Supreme Silicone 10.1-oz Clear Silicone Caulk from Lowes. Do NOT use other caulks, they do not cure!
Lint Free cloths
Metal wig comb
Pantyhose or stockings
Static Guard anti-static spray
99% isopropyl alcohol or acetone
Cornstarch and powder puff/large make up brush
For this repair you will need:
- Silicone caulk
- Caulk gun/dispenser
- Pressed powder eye shadow in the eyeliner color (optional)
- Tweezers or stick to scrape the eye shadow into a powder
- New eyelashes
- Curved cuticle scissors if you are removing the existing lashes
- 99% Rubbing alcohol or acetone if you are removing existing lashes.
For best longevity of lashes never drag fabrics over your doll’s face, and don’t put her face down. If you want her in a doggy position or something similar remember to turn her head to the side to protect the lashes or put a pillow beneath the chin or cheek. The eyelashes are the most delicate part of the doll.
If you need to remove existing eyelashes, gently pull them from the face with your fingertips. Do not tear the eyelid. If there is excess eyeliner/adhesive left behind, try to remove it gently with your fingernails without damaging the face. If more is still left, use small curved cuticle scissors to remove it. Again, do NOT cut into the eyelid, just remove excess adhesive. Wipe down cleaned area with rubbing alcohol. Let it air-dry completely before moving on to the next step.
To apply new lashes or fix existing lashes: All you need is a toothpick and a touch of silicone caulk. You just want the tiniest bead of it to embed the eyelash strip. Rather err on the side of not enough and have to add more than risk putting too much on. Push the eyelashes into the shape you want them to have. You can use a small piece of a make-up sponge to hold the lashes if necessary while the adhesive cures. Placement of the lashes can adjust expression so try to get both sides the same.
If you want to tint a pea-sized (or smaller) spot of the adhesive you can do so with powdered make up. It may give her the look of slightly heavier eyeliner. To powder the make-up just get a small tablet of pressed eye shadow in whichever eyeliner color you have. Use a craft stick, tweezers or the edge of a spoon to scrape a tiny bit of the powder out of the tablet. Add color to caulk in small increments until the desired opacity and color are achieved. Keep in mind you must be fairly quick – the caulk will cure in about 15 minutes.
Allow the new eyeliner to cure at least 24 hours before touching the face.
This is a video of Matt replacing eyelashes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPvfrhL2N8g
Fingernail and Toenail replacement
For this repair you will need:
- Curved cuticle scissors (optional)
- 99% rubbing alcohol or acetone
- Silicone caulk
- Caulk gun/dispenser
- The nail to replace
1) Optional: You can cut away any remaining adhesive on the nail bed using small curved cuticle scissors. Don’t gouge the nail bed, just trim off excess. You can skip this step if you wish. The nail will sit slightly higher if this step is skipped, but it won’t be anything crazy.
2) Wipe the surface of the fingertip with 99% rubbing alcohol or acetone. Let the solvent completely evaporate before the next step.
3) Take a pea-sized drop (or smaller) of the caulk and apply it in a thin coating on the nail bed with a toothpick. Just put on enough to wet the nail but not so much that it oozes out.
4) Place the nail on the nail bed and press down with moderate pressure to secure the nail.
5) Let the adhesive cure 24 hours before moving fingers/toes again or wetting them.
If the nipple color is wearing it’s probably from friction with the sheets, clothes, towels etc. You can use powdered blush or eye shadow (remember to get a color that is not metallic or pearl) and a soft brush to touch up the area. When the color is as you want it, you can use a tiny bit of silicone adhesive to seal the color on.
When you’re ready to do this, clean the area well and let it air dry. If there are any bits of sealer that are visibly pealing, gently remove the edges with tweezers. Touch up the color with a brush and blow off any excess. If the color is pleasing to you, put a pea-sized or smaller blob of silicone adhesive onto a hard surface. Take a make-up sponge http://www.target.com/Studio-Tools-Beauty-Wedges-32-pk/dp/B002VBPB1O/ref=sc_qi_detailbutton and tear off the end to make a jagged rough edge. Dab this edge in a tiny amount of silicone adhesive and very lightly dab it over the newly colored area and just over the edge a little. The silicone adhesive coating should be very very thin, you don’t want to make it lumpy. Allow this to dry and the color will be sealed on again.
If the lip color is wearing it’s probably from friction. We do not recommend using silicone dolls of any brand for oral penetration. Keep in mind that rubbing the area, excessive kissing, or rough facial hair can damage the surfaces of your doll. To replace the color you can use powdered blush or eye shadow (remember to get a color that is not metallic or pearl) and a soft makeup brush to touch up the area. When the color is as you want it, you can use a tiny bit of silicone adhesive to seal the color on.
How to install an insert: http://sinthetics.com/all-about-inserts/
We recommend that you take photographs during the replacement procedure in case you have any questions or problems. If something doesn’t look right, please contact us for assistance before going any further. To remove the original labia, lie your doll down and spread her legs fairly wide so you have good access. You should be able to remove the labia by gently pulling/scraping it away from the body with your fingernail. In most cases simply scraping and peeling is sufficient to remove the labia and no cutting should be required. If you cannot get the entire piece to come cleanly away from the body, you can cut around the glue seem extremely carefully with an extremely sharp blade. We recommend a number 11 Exacto blade. Cut only 1/8” – ¼” deep in smooth straight lines then try peeling away again. Do not make jagged, stop-and-start cuts and do not cut into the body material. Once you have gone completely around the labia, cut again to make the separation deeper. You can use the new labia as a guide to the shape so you know where to cut should any cutting be necessary. Once the old labia has been removed, and any excess adhesive or old silicone carefully extracted, clean the area and new insert thoroughly with 99% rubbing alcohol. Allow to dry completely. If the area is not completely dry the adhesive will not cure.
Fit the new labia into the body to see how it works and adjust the spread of her legs for best fit as necessary. Remove the labia then apply a very thin layer of silicone adhesive on the outside surface of the “bulb” area. You do not need a lot of adhesive for this project, just enough to lightly coat the area where the insert needs to be adhered. The adhesive dries fairly quickly so place the labia back into the body and press to fit. If any excess adhesive squeezes out quickly remove it immediately from the inside hole first then from the outside of the body with alcohol. You can put the alcohol on your fingertip to remove any excess adhesive. This allows greater control and also lets you feel if there is any glue that will dry in an uncomfortable place. Remember to wipe your fingers on a paper towel and add more alcohol as necessary and to avoid spreading excess adhesive around.
Once the new labia is inserted and in position you can simply close her legs together and allow to dry. If you notice any areas that are not making good surface contact you can use straight pins to help close those gaps but this should not necessary. For cosmetic areas around the labia, if desired, you can mix a little of the colored powder (included with your doll) to the caulking and fill any remaining gaps or unsightly areas. Allow your doll to completely “recover” for 24 hours before trying her out.
SILICONE TEARS: The following instructions all cover how to repair tears in the silicone.
The following pictures show how to close a large silicone tear or cut to make a minimal scar.
Fingertips (finger wire poke or torn fingertip):
For this repair you will need:
- Curved cuticle scissors (optional) if the silicone has torn and is jagged. Opt not to remove material whenever possible.
- 99% rubbing alcohol or acetone
- Silicone caulk (will last for a very long time when properly sealed)
- Caulk gun/dispenser
- Toothpick to apply caulk
- Clean the area you’re working on with acetone or alcohol. Let the area air dry completely before applying caulk.
- If the nylon-covered tip is visible, apply only enough caulk on the casing to barely wet the nylon.
- Once the nylon is lightly coated with caulk, release the silicone finger so that the wire and tip go back inside the finger. You may have to help it go back to the original position.
- If any caulk has squeezed out, wipe it off the end of the finger with your finger or a lint-free rag to remove the excess. Leaving too much caulk will leave a permanent very hard ridge on the finger so it is important to remove the excess caulk before it cures.
- The goal is to glue the nylon to the brass rod and to the silicone finger so they don’t slide against each other. Only use enough Silicone adhesive to fill the hole, don’t put on too much. It’s easier to add a bit more than take a lot off.
- Let that cure for at least 24 hours.
- Once it’s all dried you can wipe down with acetone/alcohol again, then mix a tiny bit of the caulk with the tinted powder and patch the fingertip. To smooth the patch, just wipe over it lightly with your finger before it dries to make a smooth tip.
- After the caulk has cured you can add the matting powder following directions on the package.
- If you wish to do a less visible repair, you can order a repair kit from us for $75. The kit includes adhesive, tint, matting powder and supplies. If you opt to get the kit, wait to start the repair until everything is received.
Tears in the armpits are caused by lifting the doll’s arms too high to the sides.
REMEMBER: You should NEVER attempt to put clothes on over the doll’s head. All clothing should have enough stretch/openings to dress the doll from the feet up.
You can repair the area then avoid making that movement anymore. To do the repair you will need GE Silicone II Clear Caulk (link above). You will also need a caulk gun to dispense the adhesive, and a tooth pick, a lint-free cloth or paper towels and 99% rubbing alcohol or acetone.
- To repair torn silicone, clean the area thoroughly with 99% isopropyl alcohol or the highest alcohol percentage you can get a at pharmacy or home improvement store (or acetone). Let the alcohol evaporate completely. Residue of damp alcohol will cause the caulk not to cure.
- Once the area is cleaned and air-dried, put a pea-sized amount of caulk onto a plate or something similar.
- Use a toothpick to apply a very very thin coat of the caulk to either side of the torn area.
- Do NOT goop the caulk on. Err on the side of too little. If you put on too much it will make an unsightly and hard scar.
- Press the sides of the tear together firmly making sure to line up the sides as cleanly and smoothly as possible, and as close to the original position as you can. You can use small paper staples to hold the area together like stitches.
- For the armpits, make sure the arms are in a neutral position so that the area can stretch in both directions when repaired.
- If any of the caulk oozes out of the area remove it immediately with a lint-free cloth or your fingertip. Leave the areas to completely cure for 24 hours before moving. You can remove the staples at this time.
When you are moving the arms above a 90° angle from the body, always pay very careful attention to how the silicone is stretching. If you move the arm the wrong way you’ll cause the silicone to stretch beyond its tolerance which will result in tears.
In preparation for the repair, you will need to purchase the following items.
Acetone or 99% isopropyl alcohol
Paper towels or a lint-free cloth
Optional: Tint and matting powder from repair kit
- Start by cleaning the inside of the torn area with acetone.
- Let the solvent completely evaporate before moving on to the next step.
- Reach behind the skin to feel carefully where it has separated from the foam cores. Smear some caulk on those areas to put the thigh silicone back to the cores.
- Apply a thin layer of the caulk to either side of the tear, in small steps, up to about ¼ inch from the outside of the body.
- Move the leg into a neutral position to close the cut, doing your best to line up the torn edges as smoothly as possible – the goal is to link all those puzzle pieces of shredded silicone to reduce the visible scarring.
- When the leg is in the correct almost-seated position the torn area should come together/close. If it looks like it’s compressing too much straighten the leg a bit to hold the tear closed.
- You can use new paper staples like stitches to hold the wound closed. When they are removed they will not leave a mark.
- Let the caulk cure for at least a few hours before finishing up the repair.
- After curing, take out the staples, and mix some tint in with the caulk. Do not add too much tint – it should be translucent. If you make the color opaque it will cause a dark line. Not enough tint will cause a light scar line (which would be preferable over dark).
- Apply the tinted caulk to the last thin area of the tears in a VERY THIN layer. This should be only the slightest smearing of caulk, no build-up, just barely wet the surface. If you are not sure you are not sure you have enough caulk in the tear, you may have too much. We cannot stress enough the importance of using VERY LITTLE caulk.
- For the last ¼ inch deep part of the tear, you can work 1 inch at a time from one side to the other to try to get things as cleanly lined up as possible. Keep using the staples to hold the adhered areas together. In the event you have used too much caulk, remove it immediately with your fingertip or a paper towel before putting in the staple. Too much adhesive will result in a hard ridge on the outside of the scar which cannot be removed once it has cured.
- Leave the doll for 24 hours before moving her or trying her again. If the seam is not completely closed, repeat the last steps above heeding our warnings to not use too much caulk.
- Do not keep your dolls in an upright, standing position for extended periods of time. Keep her in a neutral or seated position. On a stand, don’t push the legs all the way back into a rigidly straight position. Remember to always bend the knees when moving the thighs!
- If there are areas where existing sealer has peeled up, do not pull it away.
- Get a tiny toothpick to put a very very thin coat of caulk under the edges. Lay them down flat and smooth.
- Add some of the matte powder to the GE Silicone II Clear Caulk to make a thick paste.
- Mix well and break up any clumps of material.
- We have enclosed a couple of makeup sponges. Using the makeup sponge, lightly stipple some of the caulk over the affected area.
- Do not build up a large amount. You only need very little to glue down the edges that have raised and provide a coating to protect it from peeling any further.
- Do not touch it for at least 24 hours.
- Avoid further friction.
Air Bubble under silicone
NOTE: This issue is often incorrectly called delamination. Delamination means that silicone is peeling away from itself, like layers of an onion. It happens when a doll is poured in layers or brushed into a mold and the silicone does not bond to itself. Sinthetics dolls are not made with these techniques. Air bubbles under the silicone are caused by pressure changes and by squeezing the area too hard and forcing air out of the foam which results in a bubble under the silicone skin.
For this repair you will need:
2 basting syringes (also known as flavor injectors or marinade injectors)
Lint free cloth or paper towels
Get yourself 2 turkey baster syringes. You can order them off Amazon, or get them at cooking specialty shops.
Get Naptha, just a little bit to thin the caulk enough to be squeezable through the syringe. Not too much Naptha, just a very small amount to make the caulk more flowable. Err on the side of thinning too little rather than adding too much Naptha. You don’t want to reduce the stickiness. Mix this in some kind of disposable cup (not Styrofoam) before putting it into a syringe. As with everything, err on the side of caution – add only as much adhesive as you think you’ll need for a thin coating on the inside of the silicone. You can add more but you can’t take more out if you put in too much.
With the 1 syringe, locate the bubble, poke the syringe through AT THE SEAM of the doll so it doesn’t leave a scar.
Feel around under the “skin” with the syringe to make sure you’re in the right area with the needle.
Squirt some caulk around in that space.
Use the 2nd syringe to poke in another hole at the seam, but put the syringe in with the plunger depressed (empty).
Get the needle into the bubble spot and suck the air out of the hole. If that doesn’t get all the air out, you can unscrew the syringe so just the needle is in, then press on the bubble and let the air just come out the needle.
When you have got all the air out, pull the syringes out and then softly massage the area to work the caulk over the area and give largest spread.
Use your hands to massage and smooth so its lying absolutely flat. Leave the doll in a neutral position (like the First reveal picture) for 24 hours. Make sure that the area is smooth and like new before you walk away from her. You don’t want any accidental bubbles or permanent bumps. This whole repair must be done in a single sitting for each leg. If you need to add a bit more adhesive to get a good connection, make sure you do that while the first bit of adhesive is still wet.
Please contact us if you have any questions about this
Knee, Elbow, Wrist, Ankle:
All of these joints are tightened with the same tools and techniques.
1) Make a small incision on the seam on either side of the knee (about 2″). Use a number 11 exacto blade to make the cut. It is important to cut smoothly along the seam – start with a cut only 1/8″ – 1’4″ deep, slicing to avoid jagged edges. 2) Repeat until you cut through to the center to reveal the joint. The smoother you keep the cut, the cleaner and less noticeable the repair will be.
3) Use two 1/2″ socket wrenches, one on either nut, to tighten the joint down to a comfortable tightness.
4) Clean the inside of the incisions with rubbing alcohol then allow it to completely air dry. Alcohol can inhibit curing of the adhesive so it must be absolutely evaporated before the adhesive is applied.
5) Close the incision with GE Silicone II Clear caulk. You can add a tiny amount of the powdered tint included with your doll to color the adhesive if you wish. You only need to add enough adhesive to lightly coat each side of the seam – you do not want to put on too much as it can ooze out and create a permanent unsightly ridge.
To see pictures of how to close the seams please click HERE. We use plastic sheeting sometimes to get a very clean seam.
Here are a couple of images with the shoulder assembly in the mold so you can see what you are looking for. You will see in the image the shape of the mold that represents the seam line of the doll. So you can also see by the image just about how far the joint sits inside the silicone. As you can see by the labeling there are quite a few movements that can be accomplished in this one assembly. The two major movements are the forward and back and side to side both of which are on the shoulder side of the assembly. To tighten the forward and back motion you will have to remove the bolt from the U shaped shoulder and pull the arm rod out of the assembly to get access the bolt controlling that rotation. You will then have to use a hex head wrench and back out the small set screw which is designed to hold the bolt in position. Once you back out the hex head set screw you can then tighten the bolt and then reset the set screw, put the assembly back together and finish it off by setting the tightness on the shoulder to where you like it. The tightening of the forward and back motion will likely be a tricky one so I would recommend that you only attempt to tighten the one range of motion in the shoulder for side to side movement. I will leave that for you to decide though. Remember you only need to cut as much as to gain some access. YOU DO NOT NEED TO EXPOSE THE ENTIRE JOINT FOR THIS REPAIR.
This is a series of pictures of Matt showing how to push the wrench down into the neck – you will have to move and scrunch the silicone a bit. Use two ½” wrenches.
It is a simple tightening project, but it’s a bit scary. Depending on the doll you may also have to split the silicone at the back of the neck which is better to do intentionally with a sharp blade, than by tearing. In some cases you can slide the neck skin down just enough to reach the joint without damaging the neck.
Get a pair of ½” wrenches and put one down either side of the neck assembly. If you can’t reach the bottom assembly which you think is loose, that’s when you have to decide if you want to cut the silicone. Only cut enough to allow easier access, don’t cut all the way down because that will leave a nasty scar. Hook the wrenches onto the nuts, tighten to desired tension and you should be good to go.
Dolls produced mid-2017 and later have METAL thigh and back parts, we no longer use PVC in high stress areas.
You are going to need to cut the leg on the seam so that we can see what has happened. Our advice is tried and tested, and we give directions in small steps so as not to overwhelm.
In order to cut the leg you need a very sharp number 11 Xacto blade. It is a good idea to keep more than one blade on hand in case one gets blunt.
Start your cut about an inch and a half above the height of where you think the break is centered.
Make a single shallow (1/8” to ¼”) cut from the starting point to a stopping point about 5 inches down the outside hip/thigh seam.
Keep the cut smooth and on the seam. If you make jagged small cuts the seam will never go back together cleanly. The smoother the first cut is, the easier it will be to make an invisible closure after the repair.
Go back to the start of the cut and make the same smooth shallow cutting gesture again.
Continue to do this until you have opened the silicone to reveal the foam and the break.
Hold the area open to the best of your ability and take clear photographs that show both the break and the location of the break in relation to the leg and hip. In other words, don’t zoom in so much that we have no concept of where the break actually is.
Hip- Broken PVC
In preparation for the repair, you will need to purchase the following items.
- 99% rubbing alcohol (used mostly for medical wound cleaning) or acetone
- Paper towels
- Plastic wrap (like Saran wrap)
- A lint-free cloth
- PVC Cement (from home improvement stores, used to adhere PVC plumbing pipe together)
- A PVC cutter or similar cutting device for PVC pipe
- Philips head screwdriver
- Caulk gun/dispenser
- Canned or compressed air
- In order to cut the leg you need a very sharp number 11 Xacto blade. It is a good idea to keep more than one blade on hand in case one gets blunt.
- Start your cut about an inch and a half above the height of where you think the break is centered.
- Make a single shallow (1/8” to ¼”) cut from the starting point to a stopping point about 5 inches down the inside knee seam.
- Keep the cut smooth and on the seam. If you make jagged small cuts the seam will never go back together cleanly. The smoother the first cut is, the easier it will be to make an invisible closure after the repair.
- Go back to the start of the cut and make the same smooth shallow cutting gesture again. Continue to do this until you have opened the silicone to reveal the foam and the break.
- Once you can see where the break in the PVC is you will need to cut away some of the yellow foam that is surrounding the PVC. You only have to clean away foam from the top and a little at the sides of the PVC not all the way around the back side. If you can cut it in a way to preserve the pieces that would be best. If you cannot please contact us to purchase two part dough. You can use this dough once the repair is complete to refill the area where you pulled the foam out. The dough will not only refill the area but add significant strength to this area as well.
- You will want to clean an area about 2 inches above the break. At the highest spot you can, make a line with a pen, do your best to put the broken piece back against the pvc and measure the distance between the line you drew and the hole where the hip joint is attached to the broken part. This will be your measurement to use for knowing that the repaired bone is the same size as the original bone.
- Now that you have your measurement, you can use the PVC pipe and the coupler to make your new bottom piece of the thigh bone. You should cut your PVC a little longer than you think you will need it for the final repair, set your pieces together to see if you are correct with your measurements and once you have established the correct length you can fit all of the pieces together. Make sure that the hole that was predrilled is going side to side so the rotation of the leg will be correct when you put thigh assembly back together. Before using PVC cement you should put the whole assembly together, including the thigh in the proper position and even go so far as to temporarily close the silicone just to make sure that everything is right and that one leg is not longer or shorter than the other.
- Now use the PVC cement to glue all your parts together. Let that dry and place knee back into end of PVC with screw and nut tightened.
- Replace the foam and adhere with the caulk. Make sure the adhesive is evenly spread it out evenly.
- If you were unable to save the foam use the dough from us. You will now mix up equal parts of the dough material to fill the areas where the foam used to be. You want to use enough to fill the empty space but be careful not to over fill it. When you have thoroughly mixed the dough and placed it inside and around the PVC you can close the silicone cut and either wrap it with saran wrap or use staples as stiches to hold the cut closed. At this time you will want to make sure that there are no bulges or deformities in that leg. You will want to let the dough cure for about 8 hours. Once it is fully cured you can open the cut again and start the process of closing the cut for good.
- Clean the inside of the silicone incisions with rubbing alcohol then allow it to completely air dry. Alcohol can inhibit curing of the adhesive so it must be absolutely evaporated before the adhesive is applied. You can speed this process by use of a hair dryer or heat gun.
- Close the incision with GE Silicone II Clear caulk. If you wish to tint the caulk to the skin tone of your doll, please order powdered tint from us. You only need to add enough adhesive to lightly coat each side of the seam – you do not want to put on too much as it can ooze out and create a permanent unsightly ridge.
- I have attached pictures for you detailing the process of closing the seams. Each of the photos attached is numbered and has a description to explain the steps. We use plastic sheeting sometimes to get a very clean seam.
It takes EXTREME force and incorrect use of a doll to break the back. A repair of the spine is an extremely advanced procedure that requires manual dexterity, strength and skill. If you are not competent you should NOT attempt this repair. You can contact us to see if we can do the repair for you. The minimum cost for a spine repair is $750 plus freight to and from our facility in Los Angeles.